COLOR CHOICES

Glaze colors vary firing to firing, not to mention variations in photo exposures, therefore a few examples are given with each color to show the variations.

 Also keep in mind when choosing more than one color, contrasting light-dark colors work the best.  There are a couple terms I'll be using and some information about glazes that could be helpful in choosing your glaze color:

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"Breaking" refers to a glaze that turns darker on the high points like rims, handles, decoration and 'throwing rings' (finger marks made in the clay from throwing on the wheel) or where glaze is applied thinly.  Breaking glazes have depth, beauty and interest, but not all glazes break.  Among my glazes that break are the "washed glazes", rust and the opal.

Transparent glazes look more like 'glass'as if you can almost 'see' through the glaze, often these are the glazes that 'break' and are glossy.

Opaque glazes are more dense, richer in color and have a beauty of their own.  My opaque glazes are deep blue, deep green, rust, white & black.

 STAINED

This is the only color that isn't actually a glaze, it's an iron oxide stain, therefore what you are actually looking at is the natural clay coming through. This technique gives a more earthy quality to the peice and isn't glossy, but a matte finish and slightly rough to the touch for the difference here between a stain and a glaze is that a glaze actually melts to the pot creating a glass-like finish.  So if you like the color but would prefer that kind of finish, you might opt for the rust glaze instead of the stained effect. 

 The combination of glaze and stain is a nice contrast, like these examples above.

RUST

WASHED BLUE

DARK TAN

BLACK